Couple of questions about maintaining Alk - Long read, sorry

SALT

Premium Member
I have been wondering. Ever since I had a bit of tank crash, I have attributed it to a bad batch of Oceanic salt, my tank has started to look better, but not what I would call top notch. I finally got sick of it and decided to TCB and give the tank some real TLC. I started out checking the water parameters and here is what I found.

Ammonia - 0 - Fasttest/Seatest
Nitrite - 0 - Fasttest/Seatest
Nitrate - 0 - Fasttest/Seatest
pH - 7.0 to 8.0 - Fasttest/Seatest - Hanna pH meter
Alkalinity 1.5 to 2.0 meq/l - Fasttest/Seatest (4.2 to 5.6 DKH)
Calcium 260 ppm - Salifert
Specific Gravity of 1.025 - Refractometer
Temp 80’ F - Digital Thermometer
Oceanic RR 105 with a 40 Gallon sump/fuge total water volume about 100 Gallons

Since most things were OK I decide to focus on the pH/Alk/Calc. So, twice a day, once in the morning, lights still out, and once at evening, just before lights out, I tested them. I found that I had a problem with low pH/Alkalinity. The pH was always hovering around 7.8 - 8.0, Alkalinity was running at 1.5 to 2.0 meq/l, and the Calcium was obviously low. This was a bit confusing, especially since I had been doing a large water change, 30 Gallons, once a month for the last 3 months with Kent Salt. I re-read all of my Randy Homles-Farley articles and decided on a plan.

First I made sure the low pH was not a low oxygen/high carbon dioxide problem (aerated a water sample over night out side and the pH stayed the same). pH is basically relative to Alkalinity, I needed to bring up the Alkalinity, that would help the pH. Since the pH was low I used Washing Soda/Baked Baking Soda/Sodium Carbonate (this will have a pH increasing affect as well as bring up the Alkalinity). I did not want to shock the system so I have a dripper/doser I made out of an old vinegar bottle, air valve and soft air line. I dosed in batches of 4 table spoons mixed in a gallon of water of RO water until the Alkalinity was up to 2.5 meq/l. That brought the pH up to 8.1. So far so good.

I continued to re-checked the Calcium through the pH/Alk correction process and found it to still be low at 260ppm. No real surprise. Since Calcium and Alkalinity need to be in the proper balance in order for the corals to use it, and balanced Calcium for an Alkalinity reading of 2.5 meq/l is 410 ppm, I dosed Calcium Chloride in the doser until I received a reading of 410 ppm.

Once there I decided that I would like to get the pH up in the range of 8.2 to 8.3. Since pH is directly affected by the level of Alkalinity I decided I would maintain the balance of Alkalinity and Calcium at 4.0 meq/l and 440 ppm. I continued to dose some of each, Alk and Calc, and test and dose until the 4.0 meq/l - 440 ppm balanced was reached. This resulted in the pH right where I wanted it. Yea!

Now I had reached the balance but I knew I needed to maintain it. I continued my twice a day testing and found that I need to dose the tank daily with 2 tablespoons of the Washing Soda and every other day with 2 table spoons of the Calcium Chloride. Again I was a bit confused. My tank is mostly softies just a few LPS and only 1or 2 SPS. From reading I knew that it is difficult if not impossible to maintain a proper Alk/Calc balance if your Magnesium is low. AHA, that must be it. I purchased a Mg test kit and in fact it was low, at about 1190 ppm. OK so I dosed and tested and dosed and tested until I reached a level of 1380 ppm.

During all of this I can honestly say that things were perking up and up. The whole tank looks much better these days then it has in a long while. I have still been keeping up the twice a day testing and I still have to dose the 2 tablespoons of Alk Buffer a day (I have been switching between Washing Soda and Baking Soda depending on the pH level) and the Calcium every other day. I also drip a gallon of saturated lime water every night. Still a bit confused as to why, I started to think about what could be using Alk/Calc up to require all this dosing. I do have very good coralline algae growth and I know that uses some. I had an idea. I utilize an auto top off system. I make RO water 30 gallons at a time and use it with a float switch to keep my water level up. Depending on the temperature and the humidity it adds about 1.5 to 2.5 gallons a day. I knew what the results would be but I went ahead and tested the RO water anyway and sure enough, very low pH, like 6.0 and no Alk. I did not test Calc but I will bet it was zero too.

I am wondering if these low readings of the top off water are part of the reason I have to add so much to the system?

I am also wondering if I should be buffering my top off water to bring it in line with the pH/Alk of the tank?

If I am adding Alk as part of the top off how do I keep the Calc in balance, still dose that every other day?

Lastly, what and how much dosing does everyone else do, daily, weekly?

I would just like to hear what other reefers are doing to maintain their Alk/Calc.

One other note, and this should, and now that I think about it, will be another post. I have also found that when I mix my water change water, if I test it a couple of hours later for pH/Alk/Calc everything is pretty much in line, not quite as high as the tank but close, pH8.2, Alk 3.0 meq/l Calc 380 ppm using Kent Salt. But if I let the water sit for even two days all the readings drop. This is in a 40 Gallon trash can with a Mag 5 running. No obvious Calcium precipitation. If I use this water like this it definitely is going to lower my levels. Man water changes are suppose to be good. Oh well, like a said this should be another post.

Thanks in advance for any and all input.

Stanley T’’’ - SALT
 
Well first of all congrats. If all of us were so dilligent our tanks would be a lot better off for it!

Your RO however is not the issue. The pH is pretty much useless as it is not accurately tested. It's true that the alk and calcium are zero though but the water your evaporating should be close to that also. Bottom line it's not a major reason.

As you say many things will use up the calcium carbonate including your corraline but also all kinds of stuff. Even in pure softy tanks as acids are secreted by fish, etc it tend to lower the alk. so it's important to keep an eye on.

I maintain mine through a calcium reactor on my big tank (best investment ever) and with B-Ionic on my little tank.

I would suggest one of two things. Either do kalk through your topoff therefore adding them balanced or (my personal choice) dose both to your tank directly (preferably in the sump) in a balanced way. YOu could add just the alk part to your topoff but why? Then you will have to dose the other to the tank. Overall it's the same. You'll be using the same amount so the pH effect will be the same. My number one advice is don't wory about the pH at all! Get the alk, calcium and Mg right and the pH will take care of itself!

It suprises me that after a few hours and a few days are so different. I have noticed that testing like an hour after and a couple days yield different but that there is little difference between 12 hours later and up to a week later! Very odd, I don't have an answer for that one.
 
Keith said exactly what I was going to say. Add some kalkwasser/pickling lime to your top off. Your top off may not need to be fully saturated wit the lime so you may start out at less than the normal dosage for full saturation. Then gradually increase the ammount you add to the top off until the levels are maintained.
 
Hey Keith and Jacob,

Back when I had my 55 with no sump I use to replace all of my top off with non-saturated lime. I had room under the stand to run and an air pressurized system(float switch down, power to air pump, air pressurizes container, lime water gets pushed up to tank). I had tried having a MJ1200 in the bucket with the lime water that I used for top off but the pump quite regularly would jam up due to residue from the lime water. I was even mixing it in another container and just adding the clear liquid but it would still gunk up in too short of a time frame for my liking.

Since my upgrade to the 105 with the 40 gallon sump I did not have the room inside the stand plus the extra height created too much head pressure for the system to work anyways. I have since gone to a remote reservoir in the garage with the tube that feeds up through the attic. You might remember my post about that a while back. Well I tried to use the lime water in this system and after few days same thing, the Mag 5 I was using to pump the water would not start.

Lastly, even when I was using the lime water for top, my system has never looked as good as it does now with the constant dosing, I wonder if it was not enough and I should have been supplementing with dosing all along. I have done some more reading and research and it does seem that almost daily dosing is not too uncommon, hence why people employ kalk and calc reactors. This maybe the way to go for me but I have pretty much filled up my stand with sump/fuge and I have little or no other room to place such a device. The tank has a 48 X 18 foot print the sump is 48 X 13. Add to it that it has to sit inside the 2X4 supports and I only have a small space along the front of the sump. Maybe I can come up with something that will fit in the 3.5 inch space in front of the sump. Most likely a kalk reactor interfaced with my auto top off. Time to start thinking and until them I guess I just need to keep on dosing. I am going to try Randy Holmes Farley's Improved Do-it-Yourself Two-Part Calcium and Alkalinity Supplement System. I have all the stuff for it so I just need to implement it.


Thanks for the input guys,

Stanley T’’’ - SALT
 
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