Closed loop

[I have a 140 gal. Just bought a mag 18. I am not good with all this so I need some help.

How do I hook all this up (the easiest way) ?

I wount to be able to take all 4 power heads out of the tank.

If anyone can give me a diagram with specs I would be greatful. My tank measures 48" long 24" wide 28" tall.

Thanks for any help.]
 
[Okay, all you need is a way to get the water out of the tank, to the pump and then back up into the tank.

You do not have to worry about head pressure. Whatever your pump is rated for, it will produce virtually that. This is because the water is going down as fast as it is being pumped up. You may lose some flow due to each elbow in your plumbing though.

What size outlet is on the Mag 18? Is it 1"? If so, you'll want to use 2" PVC throughout to get the maximum flow out of your closed loop.

2" pipe sells in 10' lengths at Home Depot and Lowes, and is cheap. What costs is the little connections, like 90 degree elbows, and the unions. You MUST get unions and even ball valves. With these, you can close the valves and unscrew the unions to easily remove the pump for cleaning, maintenance or repair.

You might not liike the look of a giant 2" return in your tank, but you could send the water straight up and into a Tee fitting, then out each side behind the tank, and finally into the tank with 1" outlets. You'll need to buy reducer fittings.

If you hate the look of any white PVC, you can buy Locline that comes in black. It looks like a toy for kids, like a plastic bubbly caterpillar with an outlet at one end, and a threaded one at the other. You could get 4 of these, and snake them over the top and into the tank, for example.

This is a project, and a fun DIY, but it won't be as simple as buying some stuff and throwing it together the same day, as you'll have to track down the locline for example. I know PetOrama had some when I needed it.

You'll need the two part PVC cement sold at Home Depot. Primer/Cleaner and Cement.]
 
[I posted a thread in the DIY forum with details on my closed loop. Have a look and see if you can find it, the pictures may help you a bit.]
 
[Amanda, what is the long pipe on the right side? I cant use the SCWD for my tank so could I put the pum where that is on yours?

How big is your tank? on the returns - do you have them angled twoard the center of the tank or just straight in?]
 
[The long pipe is the intake from the tank, water goes down that one to the pump and is pushed up through the line with the SQWD. If you dont want to use a sqwd you could use a T so that you would have two returns with the same flow.
The tank is a 135 and I have the returns positioned in the middle of the tank blowing across to each side.
I think I have a pic that shows the returns and the intake in the tank. Ill look around and if I find it I will post it for you to look at.]
 
[Amanda, if you could post the pic of the inside that would be great. Your other post didnt have one.

So you dont have any powerheads in the tank just the loop?

My tank is 38" deep, so do you think I would get good flow to the bottom?

I pick up my mag 18 wensday and hopefully will have all this put together by the weekend, since I burned up my pump for my skimmer I could use one of the powerheads in the tank.]
 
[On a Mag 18 I personally would skip scwd's and would goto a OceansMotions water diverting device. You could get a 4 way and run on the Mag 18 with ease. Their website has details drawings/pictures on how to plumb them...

Ocean Motions

Im looking at going to the squirt on my 40 breeder and know several people who have the 4 way and 8 way running on their systems in closed loop configurations.

My 2 cents..

Nathan]
 
[To get the full/rated amount of flow from your pump you should use the larger pipe. That's what is used when they rate it. You can go smaller but will lose flow. For the most amount of outputs and so that you have smaller size pipe outlets in the tank you can split the 2" with a T into 2 - 1" outlets. Then you could even split the 1" outlets into 3/4" outlets. Each time you do this you will lose a little flow due to the elbows and tees but it won't be a whole lot for that size of pump.

How many outlets do you want from this closed loop? Do you want these to all be on at the same time or switch between outlets? These questions will also help you decide how to build it out.]
 
[I dont have a timer for them so thay will be on all at the same time. I was think something like this would work for how deep my tank is, I would add the shut off valves for each inlet.

Let me know any opinions

RC- closed loop]



Edited By monica on 1101188998
 
[Try to keep your Tee in the center of your return system, so that the water goes out each side equally.

And try to use 2" all the way to the Tee. At that time you can split it to 1" each side (which still equals 2" of pipe).]
 
@Marc wrote:
[At that time you can split it to 1" each side (which still equals 2" of pipe).] said:
[Sorry to be anal but actually four 1" pipes would equal a 2" pipe. Mathmatically, using the formula pi x radius squared, a circle with a diameter twice as large actually has 4 times the area.

Question, for how long should the double diameter be allowed to run before coming to the T and reducing to the original outlet diameter? For example, if the T is only 3" after the outlet, does that have the same benefits as if the T were after 2 feet of run at the double diameter?

I ask because I did not know the double diameter rule and RC says I can add 265 gph from my mag 9.5 by increasing my diameter from 3/4" plumbing to 1.5" plumbing.

Also, does this double rule only apply to mag pumps or will it increase gph on any pump?]
 
[I dont know if I understand the question but from what I know is that the larger the PVC is the more volume you will have witch is less pressure and the smaller the PVC the more pressure and lee volume.

If I am wrong some one correct me please.]
 
[Jacob, I'm no physics expert, but know the rule is to keep your plumbing larger until you must reduce it. :smart:

It's amazing to me that four 1" pipes equal one 2" pipe! :shocked:]
 
[I am ready to build 2 closed loops with a mag 24 and a mag 9.5. I am clear that I am to use double the diameter plumbing for the output but I am not clear on the input. I am supposing the input it also suppose to be double diameter also.

I don't know that I will like the look of a 2" pipe hanging down into my tank. What are my other options? I thought about T-ing it into four 1" pipes but that might look even more ghastly.

Second question. How long should the intake extend into the water? In Marc's instructions on his site it says 9" but that is for a much smaller pump with 3/4" plumbing. Similarly, how far below the water line should the first holes be drilled to prevent air from being sucked in? Instead of drilling holes could I make slices in the pipe with a table saw similar to the overflow bubble trap we have seen a drawing of recently?]
 
[hi.. my friend built a closed loop and it is spraying out bubbles on 2 of the heads and not the other two...at the pump source you can actually hear it sucking air...could anyone identify what is the problem?

specs:
mag24
all one inch pvc
4 output
what i notice might be the problem was that the siphon tube that goes into your tank isnt capped at the end..]
 
@QPham wrote:
[specs: mag24 all one inch pvc] said:
[I will be the problem is the 1" PVC. Since it has a 1" output, 2" PVC should be used.

Another question I have is where to put the ball valves to be able to close off the system when removing the pump for cleaning. On my mag 9.5 for example, I can use a 3/4" ball valve right after the output and right before the input, that way the system will be shut off closer to pump and less will flow out when removed. Additionally, a 3/4" ball valve is cheaper than a 1.5" ball valve. However, doing that also increases the distance between the pump and the double diameter pipe. Using a 1.5" ball valve will allow the plumbing to ramp up to 1.5" sooner but then there will be more free water to escape upon disassembly.]
 
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