Canopy - Detailed info needed.

N

Nautilus

[Ok I have my CoralVue 2500 watt MH ballasts and 15k bulbs just sitting here. Still working on getting my tank back to normal after the power outage but seems to be doing ok.

I am looking for advice and any drawings people may have to give me some ideas.

I am wanting 2 framed doors on the front along (does someone have the proper tools?) along with a lid to access the bulb area.

I currently am thinking about using 2 or even 4 of my 110 watt VHO bulbs along with the MH or is this over kill?

I have 2 new fans (still in the box) and 2 computers fans that are on current system That I will be using.

Any help will be appreciated.
Thanks
Dave]
 
[You say you want two framed doors....are you wanting these doors on seperate hinges? Somethig else...what kind of framed doors are you wanting? If you are wanting raised panel doors, you might want to check with some of the local shops. If you are wanting normal flat wood with framing around it, you can do that yourself with a miter saw. As for the fans, I would do two big ones in the sides (one pointing in, and one pointing out) and the two smaller ones on the back pushing air in. Here is a drawing if this helps at all.]
 
[What I need are the plans to make it.
The door would each be hindged swinging out left and right.
need to see the ribs of the canopy and how the lights are mounted etc...

Thanks
Dave]
 
[a lot of it is common sense...it's pretty much a fancy box with hinges that sits on top of a tank. Your best bet is to look at other people's canopies, or go buy some wood and learn as you go. Good luck]
 
[Dave,

I've never seen any plans perse, at least not in the sense that measured drawings, instructions, etc are provided. There is a software program that you can design a project, and it will spit out a cutlist and a material list. But, tbh it takes so much time to learn, you'd probably be done with the canopy by the time you could get the thing to spit a list out at you.

The best thing you can do is draw out a diagram, in as much detail as you can muster, including all measurements, then head out and get you some wood. HD/Lowes will make all the cuts on the wood they sell for a nominal charge, and often they do it for free at my local stores.

There's quite a few of us on the board with some experience in this regard, and I'm sure we'll be able to help you along the way. :)

Regarding construction... I've seen 2 basic construction techniques. Either all veneered plywood, or hardwood frame, skinned in a thinner grande veneered plywood.

The one I made, I made a frame out of poplar(cheap but strong, and avail at HD/Lowes) Then skinned it in 1/2" oak plywood. I then added trim pieces to suit the look I was after. It's not the same in terms of doors, etc that you are looking at, but the basic construction would work.

It's a pretty simple design. All you have to do is make 4 individual frame pieces(front, back, and sides) and then glue and screw them togther. Attach plywood skin, and then trim it out to meet your desires.

As was mentioned, if you are just wanting flat panel doors, you could cut plywood to the size you need, then edge band it in hardwood stock. There's hundreds of ways to do it, but that is simple and requires minimal tools.

If you are going for raised panels, then that is a much more complicated process, and if you just aren't into doing stuff like this, you are better off contacting a local craftsman to have them made for you. HD and Lowes will also order doors to your specifications.

Sorry for the rambling, just some thoughts off the top of my head.]
 
[That would be great if everyone could post up some photos of the canopies. This way I could see what type of design I would go with.

The frame inside the canopy is what I am interested in right now.
Also what connects the wood together? nails? screws etc...

From there I would like this to be like a finished piece of furniture not some box looking thing on top of the aquarium.

How to make the framed doors where no light is coming through it.

On the frame did you use 1 x 2 boards?
:smart:]



Edited By Nautilus on 1089068009
 
[Instead of having two doors where light can potentially have pass through, I made the front of the canopy one whole hinge that folds up. I have full acess to the top of the tank without haveing to move my whole canopy or with out turning off the light. I can even look down on my corals if i wanted to. It works very well for me and there is not an annoying light shinning through the front of it. I don't have a recent picture but i will post it ASAP]
 
[Marc,
That was nice.
I will have to look at it in more detail later today.

I can't picture using the split hood with 4 VHO's and 2 MH lights, this is why I am leaning towards a lid on the top which will give me full access to the bulbs, and the doors would allow any feeding and moving of items.

This is up in the air but seeing everyone's canopy would help me see what I need to do.

Marc,
did you use nails or screws on your hood?
The hinge, has it ever rusted?


Thanks for all the info so far everyone, keep it coming.

Thanks
Dave]
 
[Dave,

You're really wanna use glue and screws on anything structural. Obviously, you need to predrill holes first. One issue with a canopy is that it will be suceptible to some amount of expansion and contraction due to the humidity, heat etc... Over time, I think the nails will have a way of working themselves out.

Here's a pic of one I built. That's the only shot I have of the canopy.

diystandinside.jpg
alt="">]
 
[as for putting four vho's, it can be done. You would just have to arrange your lights in an arch. The two outside vho's being closer to the water. Then you two inner vho's then the hightest your MH. I was able to fit two 96 watt pc's very easily inside this canopy, i could have probably added two more with making the arch.]
 
[I have a 135G with 2 MH pendants and 4VHO and have a split canopy that works perfect. I'll post some pics later.

But the whole front lifts up and folds over with 2 of the VHOs. The rest stays in place.]
 
[Duane D,

How high off the water are your MH lights?
I have heard several different people say all kinds of different heights. The lowest to the water I think was Marc at 9". And the highest I think was 14".
I take it that your canopy has the front lift forward and up and is not split in the middle?
Nice canopy Duane.
Also how do you have it sitting on the edge of the tank?
1 x 2's or what?

Have also heard the you should not put the VHO's below the MH lights, and if this is true what good is it using the VHO's thinking they would not help so far off the water.

Heard painting the inside white help reflect the light down into the tank and noticed that most don't do this. Any particular reason why this should not be done?

A_Sig

Also a nice job done on the canopy. The same question's apply above to you.
How would I go about putting in a arch with a split lid?

Keith

Can't wait to see those pictures.

Marc,
How thick is that hinge you are using?
Is it stainless steel? If not have you seen rust on it?

Are most of your canopies made out of hard wood?
Again how tall is your canopy from the water?

Thanks everyone for posting and I look forward hearing more about your canopies.

Dave ]



Edited By Nautilus on 1089153348
 
[To answer some other question, i have my halides 6 inches off the water surface. I wouldn't put them this close unless you have a fan or a large sump. You don't need fancy computer fans for like 25 bucks. I bought these cheap 7 inch fans from walmart for 5 bucks. I just mounted them on the wall behind the canopy facing forward. I only use one fan. I have one fan in the sump running 24/7 and it keeps the water at 78.6 degrees. The hinge that i used is a 48 inch long hinge. It cost 10 bucks at Home Depot, and it's stainless steel. The only bad part about the hinge is that there are a lot of screws to put in. I didn't paint the inside, i just used the poly on the inside. I did three coats to kinda water proof it.]
 
[The piano hinge is almost three years old, and it is discolored, but not exactly what I would refer to as rust.. I'll probably replace it soon. It was assembled with nails and glue, just like most cabinetry is done when using nail guns. :wwww:

Here's my son's hood, built by Barry our webmaster. He sold it to me when he sold me his 29g:

barrys_hood1.jpg
alt="">

barrys_hood2.jpg
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barrys_hood3.jpg
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Finally, this is my 55g's hood:

http://www.melevsreef.com/pics/mh.html
http://www.melevsreef.com/pics/0504/t5.html]
 
[@Nautilus wrote:
Duane D said:
I didn't use that canopy for MH's, but it was designed with that capability in mind. Bulb height above water would have been about 6". When I had my 110g with dual 400's, they were about 6.5" above the water line.

Yes, the entire front just lifts foward and up.

The canopy rests onthe 1x2 poplar frame. The plywood outer pieces were cut oversized to hang over the aquarium trim.

Not sure I've heard that about the MH's and VHO. I've seen it done that way many times. It will obviously block some of the light off the MH's, and there might be some heat issues depending on how close they are. It's not an ideal solution, but I've seen it done.

However, many people that are using VHO in conunction with MH, aren't looking for alot of PAR out of them, but color supplementation. That's the reason for actinic use when it gets down to it. The PAR on those bulbs pretty much makes them a waste of wattage if that's what you're using it for.

As for why it should not be done... Well as long as you use the right kind of paint, I guess there isn't one. That said, there are much better alternatives. Spectral aluminum being one of the best. Lots of places sell this, it's reflective, and properly mounted can act as a sort of heat sink, protecting your canopy from damage. A few people in the club have seen my first canopy attempt, and the nice charred hole a 175w MH burned through it...

Let me add that this solution is not as good as the "spiderlight" type reflectors, but works good in conjunction with, if you are using VHO. If not, the reflectors are the way to go. HTH.]
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