Anyone able to help with some minor leaking in Hurst?

S

saltyrottie

Membership Expired
I'm no plumber, so putting in the plumbing in my new tank has been very frustrating to say the least. In short, I have no idea what I'm doing! [smilie=shake.gif] Is there anyone in the Hurst area that is available tomorrow or sometime this weekend that can help me with a little leaking in my bulkheads? I have it to a very slow drip but could really use a hand. I also need to know how to keep my tank from back siphoning if the pump went out. Ugghhh... isn't this supposed to be fun?

If anyone is available, I would REALLY appreciate it!

Michelle
 
To fix the backflow problem there is a plumbing thing I forgot the name of but basically.... It's see through in the middle and has a valve in it and let's water flow one way but when it try's to go the other direction water coming back through closes the valve. It's in the plumbing section at Any lowes or Home Depot store. You plumb it after your return obviously. The bulkheads if there over tightened will make them leak because that rubber gasket gets warped and let's water through you want those firm. I'm not close to you but if you need anymore help just post I can walk you through it I've plumbed tons of tanks
 
Thanks so much Jared. The leaks seem to be good now but I will definitely go back to lowes and get the backflow valve. Don't need a flood! LOL!!
 
The item in question is called a swing check valve. And, if I'm not mistaken, the ones available at Lowes/Home Depot contain a metal spring insert and are not suitable for saltwater aquarium usage (rust, and/or possible copper contamination). I use the ones from BRS, they are plastic and pvc and are 100% reef safe.
 
Also, you can drill a small hole on top of the return like to break the suction. On the bulkheads, you can use silicone grease and lather on thick between the bulkheads and tank on the dry side.
 
That's weird the valves here in granbury are all plastic.. I figured they all where but that is somthing to check for. Thanks for that catch
 
@Jared355 wrote:
That's weird the valves here in granbury are all plastic.. I figured they all where but that is somthing to check for. Thanks for that catch said:
You are really lucky, I have to order mine. Our local Home Despised (Brownwood and Abilene) and the Lowes in Abilene only carry the ones with the metal spring in them. Bleh, not in my reef.

Of course, any decent size plumbing supply house would also most likely have the all plastic swing check. We don't have one of those either, LOL.

Standard check valves (NOT swing check) all have the metal spring and seat, and wouldn't be reef safe. Most swing check valve are all plastic. Just an FYI.
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@Sherman wrote:
Also said:
Not the TOP of the return line, or you'll have water shooting up into the canopy / lighting fixture.

You want to drill a 1/4" hole on the underside of your return plumbing, and the specific spot should be 1/2" under the normal water level. Basically, find the spot, and mark it somehow (hold your finger there, slide a rubber band into place, etc), turn off the return pump, then drill that spot to create an anti-siphon hole. Better yet, drill two holes in case one clogs, and do so with each return line.

When the power goes out or the pump fails, as soon as the water drains 1/2" lower, the hole sucks in air and breaks the siphon.
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If the outlet for the return is at the surface of your tank there really won't be much water syphon. I might have a half inch drain into the sump.
 
@saltyrottie wrote:
I'm confused...Im not sure I understand exactly where to drill the hole. I can't afford to mess up...again!! said:
The hole should be just below or a maybe even a little over the water line depending on how much drainage is acceptable:

http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d176/JustDavidP/Return.jpg

If you mess up and want to change the location, just superglue the original hole. Drilling two is not a bad idea in case one gets clogged.
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The way that is set up right now, your tank will drain all the way down to the tip of the locline. I would drain the tank beneath that fitting where the locline screws in, and drill the side of it, preferably so the hole is pointing down slightly. If you point is straight down it may blow your sand beneath. When water is coming out of the return line, it would shoot out the side of the fitting as well as out of the locline, but that's underwater so it's no issue at all.
 
If your sump can't handle the amount of back siphon that would occur you could also raise the locline so that the tip is high enough for your sump to handle what would drain out. Regardless of what you decide to go with, I would test it a few times and leave some room for error.
 
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